Swapping out your rc car body shells 1/16 will be arguably the quickest way to turn a tired, scratched-up basher into something that looks like it just rolled off the hobby shop space. Whether you're managing a Traxxas E-Revo, a Losi Mini-T, or even one of these generic Chinese off-roaders that punch method above their weight class, the body is the spirit of the device. It's the initial thing people notice, and honestly, it's the part that takes the many abuse.
If you've been staying with the share "lid" that came in the, you're missing out upon half the enjoyable of the pastime. The 1/16 scale is a bit of a sweet spot; it's little enough that body are relatively inexpensive, but big more than enough that you could still obtain some incredible fine detail. Let's dive into what makes these types of shells tick and how to pick one that will actually fits.
Why a New Cover Changes Everything
Most people think about a new body just because the old 1 is cracked or the paint is usually flaking off. That's a valid reason, but a clean shell does more than just conceal the scars associated with a bad landing. It completely shifts the personality of the car. You can take a 1/16 huge truck and, with the right rc car body shells 1/16 , turn it in to a sleek wilderness racer or a vintage 70s muscle car.
There's furthermore the performance part of things. Share bodies are frequently designed for toughness first, which indicates they can be a bit heavy or "parachutey" in the air flow. If you're race, you might want something along with a lower user profile to cut through the wind. If you're bashing, you might want a covering with more clearance around the wheels so you don't obtain that annoying "tire rub" when the suspension compresses.
Choosing Your Material: Lexan vs. Hard Plastic
Whenever you're browsing for rc car body shells 1/16 , you'll mainly see two forms of materials: Lexan (polycarbonate) and hard plastic (ABS).
Lexan is the industry standard to get a reason. It's apparent, flexible, and incredibly tough. When a person flip your car at 30 advise, a Lexan body will flex and pop back into form. Most of these types of come clear, significance you need to paint them yourself from the particular inside. This is actually a huge in addition because the color is protected by plastic itself. You are able to scrape the layer against a tangible wall, and while your invisalign aligner might obtain scratched, the color remains vibrant.
Hard plastic bodies, on the other hands, are all in regards to the scale looks. You'll see these read more about crawlers or "shelf queens. " They have got realistic door handles, wipers, and grilles. The downside? They're brittle. If you're keen on big leaps and high-speed falls, a hard plastic shell will crack or even shatter pretty quickly. They're also heavier, which raises the particular center of the law of gravity and makes the particular car more most likely to tip over in corners.
Getting the Best Fit for Your 1/16 Chassis
This is exactly where things can get a little challenging. Just because a body says "1/16" doesn't mean it'll bolt right on to your chassis. You will find two main measurements you need to keep an eye on: wheelbase and width .
The wheelbase is usually the distance from the center of the particular front wheel to the center associated with the rear steering wheel. If you put a body with a 175mm wheel base on a car meant for 190mm, the wheels won't sit in the particular wheel wells. It'll look goofy, plus the tires will probably chew through the plastic.
Width is the particular other big one. If the body is too slim, your tires will stick out like the wide-body kit—which appearance cool, but can lead to the particular body catching upon the ground during sharp turns. In case it's too wide, the car looks like it's wearing its older brother's clothing. Always measure your own chassis before you hit "buy" on those rc car body shells 1/16 you found online.
The Art of Artwork and Preparation
In case you bought a clear Lexan layer, you've got the blank canvas. This is the part that intimidates a lot associated with people, but it's actually pretty restorative if you don't rush it. The biggest mistake people make? Not cleaning the shell. Throughout the manufacturing procedure, a "mold release" agent is utilized, and if you don't wash it away from with a bit of dish soap plus warm water, your own paint will peel from the lime in sheets.
Once it's dry, you use hiding tape (or liquid mask) to include the windows and any areas a person want to remain a different color. Here's the golden rule: constantly paint from the inside . And always use color specifically labeled regarding "polycarbonate" or "Lexan. " If you use regular equipment store spray paint, it won't bond to the plastic material. The very first time the body flexes, the paint will flake away from like old dandruff.
Start with your darkest colors first and shift to the lighter in weight ones. If a person spray white over black, the white won't show upward. If you apply black over white, you'll just obtain a dirty-looking grey. It requires a bit of planning, but the result of the fresh DIY color job will be worth the effort.
Producing Your Shell Last Through the Bashes
Let's be real: we all crash. Your greatest drivers have those days where the car spends even more time on the roof than its wheels. If you would like your own rc car body shells 1/16 to last longer than the week, you need to reinforce all of them.
A vintage enthusiast trick could be the "Shoe Goo and Drywall Tape" method. You take fiberglass drywall tape, stick it in order to the inside associated with the body (especially around the body post holes as well as the corners), and after that smear a layer of Shoe Goo over it. Once it cures, it produces a flexible, rubbery "exoskeleton" that makes the particular body significantly tougher to tear. It adds a little excess weight, but it can triple the existence of your shell.
Another tip is to use "body washers" or actually just small items of foam below the body videos. This prevents the particular body posts through ripping through the plastic during the rollover. It's a cheap fix that will saves you through needing to buy a new shell way too soon.
Mounting Styles: Clips vs. Magnets
Most 1/16 cars use the regular post-and-clip system. It's reliable, it's basic, and it also works. But if you hate the look of plastic posts protruding of your engine, you might want to look into on stealth mounts or magnets.
Magnetic mounts allow you to keep the body totally smooth on the outside. You glue magnets in order to the inside associated with the shell plus mount the related magnets for the framework posts. It looks incredible, but there's a catch. Within a high-speed accident, the body is more likely to fly off. For the 1/16 street car or a light drifter, magnets are usually awesome. For a good off-road basher that's going to be carrying out backflips, you're possibly best sticking along with the clips.
Where to Find the Coolest Shells
Since the 1/16 level is really popular, you aren't limited in order to just the "official" replacement parts. Companies like Pro-Line, JConcepts, and various eBay sellers offer a huge range of rc car body shells 1/16 . You will find everything from classic VW Beetles to modern trophy trucks.
Don't end up being afraid to look at bodies meant for some other brands, either. Most of the 1/16 stuff is cross-compatible with a little bit of trimming. Just remember to maintain your scissors sharp—curved Lexan scissors really are a lifesaver here—and take your time.
At the end of the day, a new body shell is the particular best way in order to keep the hobby experience fresh. It provides you a project to work upon once the weather is usually too bad in order to go outside, and there's nothing quite like the feeling associated with peeling off that will protective outer movie following a fresh paint job. It's that will instant "new car" smell, just upon a slightly smaller sized scale. So go ahead, pick out the new look, and get back available.